Interview with the Trainer

Are rottweilers aggressive?
No because when people have direct contact with them, they get used to be around people. By nature his temperament is between phlegmatic and angry. The rottweiler must always have a trainer so that it can be taught the basic course of discipline.

If rottweilers are not naturally aggressive, then why do they become aggressive?
Rottweilers get aggressive when they know that a person is scared, they can smell fear. But all canines do this, not only rottweilers.

Rottweiler Info

WITH PROPER training and socializing, the Rottweiler can be a great family pet, companion, herding dog, tracking dog, obedience dog, etc.

They are very loyal, dedicated, loving, beautiful and intelligent.

As a rule they do not bark a lot unnecessarily and they are generally good watch dogs who will let you know when something's up.

With proper training and socializing they will enjoy and participate in nearly any outdoor activity you desire. At the same time, WHEN MATURE, a WELL EXERCISED Rottweiler is a very sedate house dog that wants nothing more than to sleep on the bed or chew on a Nylabone.
However, they are not perfect and do have their down sides.

They are not mature until after 2 years of age and the average life expectancy is only 8 - 10 years.

They are very susceptible to a wide range of cancers and they have a poor immune system (particularly when young) and need a more specialized vaccination schedule as a puppy in order to develop proper immunity.

They are also prone to contracting more viruses than the average dog, especially when fed improperly.

They are susceptible to hip dysplasia, tearing cruciate ligaments and heart problems as well as cancer. They are strong willed and need LOTS of PROPER training and socializing when young. IF you fail in your duties to select, train and socialize them properly, they can be dangerous (sometimes inadvertently) as adults. They are mouthy as puppies until properly taught bite inhibition. Puppies also tend to have temper tantrums. Similar to baby Grizzly bears!

Young dogs require a lot of very good food (poor quality food can cause health problems) SOME young males CAN require as much as 8 - 10 cups of excellent quality food per day, that's 2 - 2 1/2 lbs!

When shedding they leave black "mouse balls" everywhere.

Young dogs require a lot of exercise and need some form of work (obedience, agility, herding, etc). They can be destructive if bored or improperly housed.

They CAN be very dog aggressive especially if not spayed/neutered or if not properly socialized.

They play hard and can easily injure someone unintentionally. They also herd children and other animals and can bump, or nip them while doing so without meaning harm.

It CAN be difficult to obtain homeowner's or renters insurance if you own a Rottweiler.

If you are still interested in owning a Rottweiler, please read some of these excellent books:
The Rottweiler by: Jim Pettengell
The Complete Rottweiler by: Muriel Freeman
Rottweilers by: Les Price
Dr. Ackerman's Book of the Rottweiler
Proper care of Rottweilers by: Joan Klem and Susan Rademacher
Pet Owner's Guide to the Rottweiler by: Mary MacPhail

Loose Dogs

NEVER allow your Rottweiler to run free. Current "vicious dog" hysteria can cause people to panic at the mere sight of what they think is a "vicious" breed. Many police officers will also shoot loose Rottweilers thinking that they are a public threat. Additionally your Rottweiler could get hit by a car. He could get stolen. He might chase wildlife (which is illegal and very unhealthy for the wild animals). He might harrass livestock or pets. A citizen might kill him for imagined (or real) reasons. He could get into a dog fight. He could knock down, or God forbid bite someone. It is also a violation of most purchase contracts to allow your Rottweiler to be loose and not under direct control.

Chewtoys

Do not give your Rottweiler rawhide, sterilized bones, smoked bones, or cooked bones. These can cause intestinal impaction which can require surgery and sometimes even death. Safe chew toys include any of the Nylabone brand and Kong brand toys that your dog does not have a tendency to destroy. Real raw beef and buffalo leg bones 8" or longer in length are safe also. Bones should have all exterior fat removed. Cow hooves are also safe for most but not all dogs.IF HOWEVER hooves or real bones bring out aggressiveness or protectiveness in your puppy try making them crate only items. If this behavior persists at all then simply avoid these toys as, in my opinion, they are just not worth that hassle! Pigs ears, cow ears, etc.. should be avoided as they have been linked to serious illness and health issues as well as sometimes bringing out a nasty side in some dogs. Remember to keep all socks, nylons, bottlecaps, golfballs, etc.. off of the floor. MANY dogs have died from eating non digestible items. IMPORTANT! Remember that NOTHING gets chewed up if YOU keep it picked up! It is NEVER the puppy's fault for chewing something up, it is yours!

Socializing

Be sure to give your puppy LOTS of attention and socializing! Take him everywhere and anywhere. Expose him to anything that you will want him to be good around as an adult. (use common sense while he is young with an immature immune system, and do not take him to places where ill dogs may have walked, peed or pooped like dog parks)Be sure to include strange men, woman, people of a race other than yours, children, handicapped people, livestock, other healthy and mannerly dogs, cats, vehicles, strange places, strange objects etc... Puppies need an absolute minimum of 3 hours of socializing every single day. This includes time with the noisy family, training, trips to other places etc.

Grooming

Keep your dog's toenails short. Long nails can ruin his feet and can also cause joint and lameness probems. Learn how to do them yourself if possible so that you may trim a little of each week. Walking the puppy on pavement or concrete can sometimes help also as can exercise in places where the pup is abe to dig in his feet when running.

Brush your Rottweiler daily or at least once a week with a rubber brush or a fine tooth comb. This will greatly reduce the amount of loose black hair around the house and on clothes. Wipe the ears out with a cottonball dampened with alcohol, peroxide or a commercial ear cleaner once a week. Be sure that your dog has safe chew toys (Nylabones, Hercules, raw beef leg bones) and encourage him to chew daily to help prevent tarter buildup. Bathe no more than twice monthly, unless essential (showing, sprayed by skunk etc) Be sure the dog is dry before allowing him outside in cold weather. Use a good quality dog shampoo. Oatmeal dog shampoos are great for sensitive or flakey skin. Be sure to rinse very thoroughly!

Exercise

Do not force exercise. Especially in Rottweilers less than 18 months of age. If they are tiring they must stop to rest. Tired muscles (in humans and dogs) become weak and injuries are more likely to occur at that time. Swimming imposes no impact and is not restricted except that tiredness and water intake need to be monitored to prevent cramps and accidental drowning. The puppy should not be asked to pull weights in excess of 5-10 lbs before 14 months of age (and not at all under 7 months) and not in excess of 15-20 lbs before 18 months of age to prevent skeletal stress. He should not carry (in backpacks etc.) more than 2-5% of his body weight or 5 lbs whichever is less, between the ages of 6 to 14 months and should never carry more than 10% of his body weight until beyond 18 months. As an adult he should never carry more than 20% of his weight and that only after training with gradually increasing weight over many week's time, and not on a steady basis.

Do not let the puppy play on slippery surfaces or with adult dogs as these can cause muscle, joint and growth plate injuries. Try to not allow him to jump up for a treat or a toy; or jump off or over objects that are more than 1' high until beyond 1 year and then only on good footing and with common sense.

DO allow the puppy to run and play on safe footing as much as he wants of his own free will. Be sure he is in a safely enclosed area when playing off a leash.

Crates

Buy a crate (preferably plastic if you are housebreaking a puppy as they hold in liquid accidents better) and train your puppy to stay in it at night or whenever you cannot supervise him. The average adult female needs a crate 36"L X 24"W X 26"H. Average adult males need 40"L X 27"W X 30"H. Do not put a bed in with puppies as they will chew them up or soil them. For very small pups you can put shredded newspaper in to absorb any accident. With small pups blocking off the rear portion of a large crate helps with those that are over 12 weeks of age and are still soiling the crate. To aid in the housebreaking be sure to set up a feeding and elimination schedule and stick with it. Puppies are physically unable to "hold it" for any great length of time until 3 1/2 to 4 months of age. I do not recommend wire crates for Rottweilers under 8 or so months of age as legs can get caught or pinched between the bars and the growth plates in the front legs can be damaged.

Do not ever leave a collar on any dog in any crate. Many dogs have died when a part of their collar inexplicably got caught on the crate in ways no one could have foreseen.

Worms, Fleas, & Illness

Have your vet perform a fecal (worm) check once or twice a year. Have a heartworm check and a physical performed each April or May. Remember to give the Heartworm pills each month for the number of months your vet recommends. Our personal preferance is the Interceptor brand

When battling fleas always use the minimum chemicals possible. It IS possible to be flea free with few or no chemicals. Our animals have been flea free since 1990! Our personal routine is:

• Once warm weather arrives we clean out all dog houses and spray them with X-Otrol household spray or Eqyss Summer Defense, let them completely dry and then re-fill with pine shavings.


• Our house is treated once a year with Flea Busters powder (not a chemical)


• Crates are cleaned monthly


• Rooms are well vacuumed weekly (remember to seal and throw out vacuum bags as fleas can reproduce in there!)


• Dogs are bathed monthly with a high sudsing oatmeal shampoo and combed while in the tub


• During warm weather all dogs get 1/2 clove of garlic once a day or 1 garlic capsule once a day

IF HOWEVER, you live in a climate that is warmer then N.H. USA and this regime does not work well for you than a compromise would be to do ALL of the above PLUS apply Advantage topical once a month (In HIGH tick areas use Frontline topical instead as it kills ticks also). BE AWARE that you are applying a chemical to your dog's skin and that brings risks of it's own. These chemicals remain in your dog's hair follicles and oil glands for at least a month (based upon our boarding kennel customer's experiences I do not recommend any other brand of chemical topical flea treatment- but that is my own personal opinion, given that I won't use them on our pets at all) There are non chemical flea sprays (Buddy Splash flea formula is one) but they need to be applied every day to work and they do not work in high flea areas. The Eqyss Summer defense works moderately well for ticks as does Tick Guard I personally am not at all comfortable with the flea steriization pills (Program and Sentinal) as they are are placing flea sterilizaton chemicals into your dog's body (again just my own personal opinion) REMEMBER, the fewer chemicals in or on your dog's body the healthier he will be! Sources for non chemical flea products are:Flea Busters powder for houses, rxforfleas@aol.com, 800-666-3532. Morrill's New Directions (Pure Comfort Erigerion shampoo and other great products) P.O.Box 30, Orient, Me 04471 , 800-368-5057 morrills@morrills.com, as well as the two companies whose products are listed above.

Common signs of illness are: lack of appetite; constipation; diarrhea; vomiting; constant discharge from the eyes, nose, penis or vulva; depression; any swellings or lumps; excessive hair loss; foul smelling ears or mouth; lameness; excessive thirst; or inability to urinate. If your dog has diarrhea or vomits more than once in a day: do not feed him for 24 hours. After 24 hours you may give him some boiled rice, boiled chicken and canned pumpkin. Do not allow him to drink excessively but do not restrict this too much. CALL your vet about the POSSIBILITY (and dosage) of giving Pepto Bismol or Immodium in severe cases. IF your dog is not improving after 48 hours or if the diarrhea/vomiting is accompanied by depression, lethargy, blood or loss of appetite get him to the vet AS SOON AS POSSIBLE! Some young bitches may get vaginitis or urinary tract infections. Symptoms may include a vaginal discharge, repeated licking, frequent urination or a sudden loss of house breaking. See your vet for a urinalysis or a vaginal smear for diagnosis. Some Rottweilers occasionally burp up food or other things they have eaten. Sometimes just keeping them quiet 1/2 hour before and after eating helps. If this is a daily occurrence please see your vet for evaluation.

Vaccines

The Rottweiler often has a sensitive immune system that does not always respond as expected. Progard vaccines, made by Intervet (1-800-835-0541) were developed and tested on Rottweilers and provide the most reliable immune response to vaccinations. Additionally the prominant Veterinary colleges are now advocating fewer vaccinations than previously.See Colorado State College of Veterinary Medicine's protocol and for a Holistic viewpoint see Shirleys Wellness Cafe. It is preferable to not give the rabies vaccines within 3-4 weeks of distemper or parvovirus vaccines. Breeding bitches should NEVER receive any boosters closer than 6 months prior to being bred. We Do NOT reccommend having dogs vaccinated against Lyme disease. (The vaccine is not very effective and actally causes as many problems as the disease itself. See my Links page for interesting Lymes disease reading) or Leptospirosis (the strains currently in most vaccines are NOT the strains causing illness in dogs today. Additionally Lepto vaccines have a very limited immune response time and are responsible for many vaccine reactions)

Frontier's Vaccine Schedule



Boosters (or blood titer levels tested) thereafter every three years; and we do not vaccinate dogs over 7 years old for anything other than Rabies

Feeding

If you must switch from one brand or type of dog food to another. There are two ways to do it properly and you need to choose the way that works best for your situation and individual dog.

A)Mixing new and old gradually over one to two week's time, gradually adding more and more of the new food.

B)Fast your dog one meal. For the next meal, feed 1/4 of your dog's normal amount of just new food. The next meal feed 1/2 of the normal amount using just the new food. Stay at this level for 2-4 more meals, then gradually work up to the quantity he normally gets in a meal over another day or two's time. Watch your dog for sloppy stools or for weight gain. If either occur cut back 1/2 cup and observe again. Every food has a different calorie level and you may need to feed more or less of the new food to obtain the same weight management results. Always observe your dog's weight and stool output when changing feeds and adjust meal potions accordingly. Remember every food does not work for every dog and just because your friend's dog does well on X brand does not mean your dog will!

Keep your Rottweiler lean throughout his entire life. Condition, not fat, creates health and vitality. You should be able to easily feel but not see all of the ribs. If you can count the ribs by looking, he's too thin. If you have to poke he is too fat. Carrying too much weight contributes greatly to the developement of joint and growth problems in young dogs and causes joint and ligament trouble in adults.

A GENERAL guide to feeding Rottweilers dry dog food (kibble) is as followsFrontier's Feeding Guidelines

"Growth" meaning a puppy/lactation formula of a high quality brand 28% protein and 18% fat. "Adult" meaning a normal maintainence formula of a high quality brand 24-27% protein and 14-16% fat If feeding a raw patty style(meat mix) homemade diet: 1 cup of meat mix (8 oz) is the approximate equivelent of 1 cup (4 oz) of high quality kibble so adjust your volume according to dog's appearance more than by number of cups. If feeding a raw meaty bones and pulped veggie diet then feed aprox 2-3% of dog's body weight per day (puppies need more), and again ALWAYS go by dog's appearance when deciding if you are feeding enough or too much; and be sure to read Carina MacDonald and/or Ian Billinghurst's books or consult with an experienced raw feeding breeder before beginning a raw diet. If feeding a prepackaged raw diet go by the manufacturer's guidelines AND the dog's appearance

DO NOT try to grow your pup quickly! Slow but steady growth is best. Rapid growth and/or fat puppies has been shown to aggravate genetically predisposed problems such as Hip dysplasia, Elbow dysplasia, OCD, panostitis, etc. Your dog will reach his genetic height and weight regardless of whether he is pushed to attain it quickly or fed to grow more slowly. The slower grown pup will be the healthier and sounder though.

If feeding a kibble diet, Feed a good quality, all natural feed that does not contain chemical preservatives (BHT,BHA, Ethoxyquin for example) or dyes. Some good choices are Innova, California Natural and Healthwise ; by Nature Bright Life; Canidae; to name just a few of the more popular brands. Alternatively, you can feed your dog a completely raw and natural diet. For the particulars of this diet see Carina MacDonald's book "Raw Dog Food, Make it easy for you and your dog" and/or Dr Ian Billinghurst's books "Give your dog a bone" and "Grow your pup with bones" all are available through Dogwise OR consult with a raw feeding breeder before starting. You can make this diet yourself or you can buy it premade and frozen from many companies. Just a few of these are Bravo; Aunt Jeni's; The Ultimate Diet; Steve's Real Food for Pets and Halshan

If you live in an area where the water is treated, use bottled water at first. Gradually introducing your local water. If YOU do not drink your local water due to chemicals, metals, bacteria etc then DO NOT give it to your Rottweiler!

Training Tips

• Do not hit the puppy, especially about the head and face! This will make him hand shy and head shy and will cause you huge problems at the vet, training class and dog shows.An excellent book on raising and socialising your puppy properly is Ian Dunbar's "After you get your puppy" available through Dogwise.com


• Right from the begining teach your puppy to allow all parts of his body to be examined and handled. ESPECIALLY teeth, mouth, feet and testicles (obviously not an issue with neutered males) by both you and strangers. Rottweilers are notorious for not allowing these examinations to be performed if not trained to do so as a pup.


• Teach your puppy to allow people to take food, toys etc away without aggression. Start with toys the puppy is the least posessive of and practice giving and taking using the command "leave it" or "drop it" (be sure to end with you giving the pup the toy or a yummy treat!) Gradually work up to items the puppy is more possessive of. Also work with new people and the pup with this game. ALWAYS start new people with the the least possessive item and work up to the more possessive. Toys that bring out possessiveness should not be given or should be allowed only in the crate. Your puppy should not be encouraged to growl at innocent, non threatening people or dogs. Your puppy should be positively rewarded for greeting people nicely with a happy outlook and all 4 feet on the ground.If you allow inappropriate aggression in a puppy, you will have huge problems when he's an adult! A GREAT book to read on dog problems is: "Dogs Are From Neptune" by Jean Donaldson.


• Train your dog in obedience so that he will be a well mannered canine citizen when in public and so that you may easily handle him. A well trained Rottweiler is excellent P.R. for the breed. Discourage barking and lunging when in the car also. Try to practice obedience once or twice a day for 5-15 minutes each time. BE SURE to make training fun! Try to teach retrieving/fetch as this is a great exercise game. Tug of War should only be played IF 2 rules are followed. #1 if teeth touch ANY human skin the toy is put up and the game ends. #2 the game begins and ends when the HUMAN, NOT the dog says so. The Clicker method is the only method we are using for our dogs.


• Remember that it is easier to instill good habits than to break bad ones!


• Establish rules right from day #1. Be consistant and many problems can be avoided. Two examples in particular are 1- no jumping on people ever. 2-no biting or nipping. Teach bite inhibition right away as a young puppy. To do this start out by hollering "Oww!" each time the puppy bites too hard. After a week holler "Oww!" anytime any pressure is applied with his teeth. After another week or two holler"Oww!" if the teeth even touch human skin. IF at anytime after the first week you have to say "Oww!" twice and are having no effect, walk away and totally ignore the puppy for a couple minutes. You will begin to see the puppy actually take their mouth off you when you say "Oww!" once they have learned this well. I start all of our babies bite inhibition training at 5 or 6 weeks of age and by the time they go to new homes they have a firm grasp of the concept.

Rottweiler Trainers

United States of America

Trainer: Barb Gadola
Marana, Arizona
Phone: 520 850 0958
Email: Barb Gadola
Website: http://www.distinctivedogtraining.com

Trainer: Lynne Gifford
Palmdale, California
Phone: 661-478-3326
Email: Lynne Gifford
Website: www.blazingtrailsk9academy.com

Trainer: Fran Williams
Tehachapi, California
Email: Fran Williams

Trainer: Laura Dash
Studio City, California
Phone: 818-802-5481
Email: Laura Dash
Website: http://www.dolittlesdogs.com

Trainer: Barbara Davis, CPDT, CDBC
Corona, California
Phone: 866-LUVADOG
Email: Barbara Davis, CPDT, CDBC
Website: www.baddogsinc.com

Trainer: Kathy Tallant
La Habra, California
Phone: 714-313-0956
Email: Kathy Tallant
Website: http://www.katsdogtraining.com

Trainer: Caryl Wolff, CPDT, NADOI, CDBC
Los Angeles, California
Phone: 877-7-DOGGIE
Email: Caryl Wolff, CPDT, NADOI, CDBC
Website: www.DoggieManners.com

Trainer: Diane Pearl
Rancho Cucamonga, California
Email: Diane Pearl

Trainer: Elaine Allison
Los Angeles, California
Phone: 866-K9s-Best
Email: Elaine Allison
Website: http://www.caninesbestbehavior.com/

Trainer: Mimi Katz
San Diego, California
Phone: 858-354-5029
Email: Mimi Katz

Trainer: David Banor
Sacramento, California
Phone: 916-927-7725
Website: http://www.doganswers.com/Rott-SAC.htm


Trainer: John Rodriguez
Georgetown, Connecticut
Phone: 203 232 8018
Email: John Rodriguez
Website: http://www.do-behave.com/

Trainer: Martha Bailey
Glastonbury, Connecticut
Phone: 860.633.6878
Email: Martha Bailey
Website: http://www.candlewicktraining.com

Trainer: Sarah Althen
Manchester, Connecticut
Phone: (860)463-5276
Email: Sarah Althen
Website: http://www.trainingbothendsoftheleash.com/

Trainer: Mark Renick
Watertown, Connecticut
Phone: 860-274-0802
Email: Mark Renick
Website: www.connecticutk9.com

Trainer: Jean Crooke
Rehoboth Beach, Delaware
Phone: 302-226-0739
Email: Jean Crooke
Website: www.pupforum.com/trainers/forum/index.cfm?trainer_forum_id=8

Trainer: Janice DeMadona
Davenport, Florida
Phone: 863-557-0564
Email: Janice DeMadona
Website: http://www.dogtrainingwithjanice.com/

Trainer: Linda Werlein
Myakka City (near Sarasota), Florida
Phone: 941-322-0705
Email: Linda Werlein
Website: http://www.VonAsgard.com, www.K-9BootCamp.com

Trainer: Marie-Gabrielle Selarque
Honolulu, Hawaii
Phone: 808 395 2224
Email: Marie-Gabrielle Selarque
Website: prodoghawaii.com

Trainer: Heidi Janss
Wheaton, Illinois
Phone: 630-668-0074
Email: Heidi Janss

Trainer: Lysa Bea
Roselle, Illinois
Phone: 630-980-7696
Email: Lysa Bea

Trainer: Laurie Luck, CPDT
Mount Airy, Maryland
Phone: 240-848-3468
Email: Laurie Luck, CPDT
Website: www.smartdoguniversity.com

Trainer: Elaina Wirtz
Gardner, Massachusetts
Phone: 978-423-4219
Email: Elaina Wirtz

Trainer: Barbara Langston, ABCDT
Lexington, Massachusetts
Phone: 617-230-2946
Email: Barbara Langston, ABCDT

Trainer: Elise Gouge
Amherst, Massachusetts
Phone: 413-230-9873
Email: Elise Gouge
Website: http://www.petbehaviorconsulting.com/

Trainer: Karen Gorman
Howell, Michigan
Phone: 810-229-7353
Email: Karen Gorman
Website: www.ezdogpark.com

Trainer: Roni Hoff
Edwardsburg, Michigan
Phone: 574.370.3403
Email: Roni Hoff
Website: http://tristark9.com/

Trainer: Denise Lukacs
Sylvan Lake, Michigan
Phone: 248-232-3655
Email: Denise Lukacs
Website: http://www.thepetteacher.com/

Trainer: Patty Crichton
Petoskey, Michigan
Phone: 231-439-0365
Email: Patty Crichton
Website: http://www.northwoodsdogtraining.com

Trainer: Brad Jones
Sedalia, Missouri
Phone: 660-827-5172
Email: Brad Jones
Website: www.pettiscountyk9.com

Trainer: Darcy Jackson
Kalispell, Montana
Phone: 406-752-4460
Email: Darcy Jackson

Trainer: Agni Sarmaniote
Merrimack, New Hampshire
Phone: 603-424-8828
Email: Agni Sarmaniote
Website: http://www.angelpupstraining.com/

Trainer: Diana Coles
Eatontown, New Jersey
Phone: 732-542-6185
Email: Diana Coles
Website: www.TeachersPetNJ.com

Trainer: Lynne Petermann
Little Falls, New Jersey
Phone: 973-444-5880
Email: LYNNE PETERMANN
Website: http://www.thepookyprofessor.com/

Trainer: Vyolet Michaels, CPDT, CTC
Red Bank, New Jersey
Phone: 732-758-8522
Email: Vyolet Michaels, CPDT, CTC
Website: http://www.urbandawgs.com

Trainer: Renee Premaza
Marlton, New Jersey
Phone: (609) 280-9338
Email: Renee Premaza
Website: jerseydogtrainer.com

Trainer: Dale Ketcham
Huntington, New York
Phone: 631-549-8263
Email: Dale Ketcham

Trainer: Charlie Petrizzo
Weddington, North Carolina
Phone: 704-841-4213
Email: Charlie Petrizzo
Website: www.circleoflifedogtraining.com

Trainer: Jennifer Shryock
Cary, North Carolina
Phone: 919.961.1608
Email: Jennifer Shryock
Website: http://www.familypaws.com/

Trainer: Bill Jenkins
Cache, Oklahoma
Phone: 580-512-6629
Email: Bill Jenkins
Website: http://www.texomak-9.com

Trainer: Lindsay Tucker
Hazleton, Pennsylvania
Phone: 570-454-7054
Email: Lindsay Tucker
Website: http://www.courteouscaninesinc.com/

Trainer: Sue Conklin
Pelzer, South Carolina
Phone: 864-243-9450
Email: Sue Conklin

Trainer: Chip Ditto
Dyersburg, Tennessee
Phone: 731-627-0537
Website: http://www.vonderfaultline.net/

Trainer: David Wilson
Murfreesboro, Tennessee
Phone: 615-349-5433
Email: David Wilson
Website: www.wilsonk9service.com

Trainer: Wayne Shaffer, ABCDT
Copperas Cove, Texas
Phone: (254) 577-4988
Email: Wayne Shaffer, ABCDT
Website: http://pawsitivemethods.com/

Trainer: Paula Weir
Carrolltn, Texas
Email: Paula Weir
Website: http://www.woofgangddc.com/

Trainer: Kathrine Breeden
The Colony, Texas
Phone: 972-345-7955
Email: Kathrine Breeden
Website: http://www.bekindtodogs.com/

Trainer: Kim Grieff
Tomball, Texas
Phone: 713-738-8886
Email: Kim Grieff
Website: http://www.thepettutor.com/

Trainer: Korey Hawke
Sandy, Utah
Phone: 801-523-3731
Email: Korey Hawke
Website: http://www.mountairekennels.com/

Trainer: Teresa Patton
Fairfax Station, Virginia
Phone: 703-978-0007
Email: Teresa Patton
Website: www.felicityenglishspringers.com

Rottweiler's History

How the Rottweiler Got Its Name

The area of Germany where the Rottweiler's story begins is in the southwestern section, around the productive farm area of Wurttemberg - the district of Rottweil, to be specific, its principal city and district seat bearing the same name.

Around 260 A.D., the Romans were ousted from this area. Left behind were some of their dogs for which work was provided since cattle raising and agriculture remained the prime occupations. It was about 700 A.D. that a Christian church was built where formerly had stood the Roman Baths. As excavation began, the red tiles of former Roman villas came to light, and thus the city was named Rottweil, suggested by the appearance of these red tiles.

Rottweil became a prosperous marketplace and cultural center in time, attracting cattlemen, farmers and other traders from considerable distances to do business there. These men soon noticed the excellence of the "butcher's dogs", as the breed was then known, and started purchasing them. Here again, a capable dog or two was a necessity, not only in bringing in one's stock safely but also making the return trip with their money bags, for which no safer place could possibly be found than fastened to the collars of these dogs!

All of this led to increasing respect for the "butcher's dog", and local owners began selectively breeding them. Since they were considered far superior to others of their type to be found in that area, the name "Rottweiler" was bestowed upon them to distinguish them from the rest. This name has remained until the present day.

Reference: Rottweilers by Anna Katherine Nicholas #1 Best Selling Rottweiler Book

History of the Breed

The origin of the Rottweiler is obscured by the shadowy mists of history. However, most historians of the breed agree that the original blood was of Roman origin. The dog that accompanied the eleventh legion that was to conquer the area we now know as Rottweil in AD74 would not be recognizable as the breed we know today.

To understand the Rottweiler lineage, it is necessary to go even further back in time. Long before Christ, dogs were used in the amphitheatres of Rome for fighting large cats (there were usually three dogs pitted against one lion). These dogs were known as Lollosus dogs. Dogs of this type were also used in the Asiatic wars against rival armies. So it can be understood that planned breeding is not a new idea. There are accounts of dogs of Mastiff type being exported from Britain to Rome through an agent known as the Procurator Pugnacium (provider of dogs). Only the best were good enough to grace the amphitheatres; a second class performance by man or beast was not tolerated and would probably lead to the inevitable 'thumbs down'. It is reasonable to assume therefore, that there would be a residue of canine stock, who for one reason or another would be deemed unsuitable to die for the perverted pleasure of the gloating Roman nobility.

The dog which the eleventh legion would have taken with them would need some herding instinct, be fleet of foot and be powerful enough to guard the herd against wolf or bear. Colour or general type was not important. Driving the cattle that was to feed the troops through the Alps was a Herculan task and it would have been impossible without the dogs.

It is known that dogs of herding and hunting ability were already in north Switzerland and south Germany, an area once known as Helvetia. Best know is the marsh dog of the Swiss Lake people, which was capable of speed and also had a strong powerful jaw. Also domestication of dogs and cattle had been undertaken some twelve hundred years ago in southern Europe by Azilian hunters who used dogs to corner their prey. They were the first known tamers of animals.

The dogs that came with the Romans probably mated with the indigenous population, helping to form many of the breeds we know today. In fact, the indigenous population probably had more influence than most historians believe. The Rottweiler is almost more of a Swiss-type dog than a German one. By this I mean, in Switzerland the Rottweiler has many close cousins, including the Bernese Mountain Dog, Appenzeller and Entlebuch. The Entlebuch is also docked and resembles the Rottweiler to such a degree that it is easy to believe in a common ancestry.

The Rottweiler originates from a town of the same name, Rottweil, known as Area Flaviae by the Romans. It was an important administration and social centre and had been populated at least two thousand years BC. With the coming of the Romans, the town was developed and transformed. The Orphic mosaic found in Rottweil probably enhanced the house of a wealthy Roman. The Bath House, also discovered in town, tells us how important a site this was. Building continued and the town was upgraded to a fortified villa. The most important buildings would have had red hand-made tiles on the roof and for this reason, the region became known as Rottwil (red villa). This name was changed over a period of time to the name we know today, Rottweil. Between AD250 and 260, the town was conquered by Suebi and Alemanni tribes who slaughtered the Roman habitation. One can only guess what became of the dogs of the town, for they were usually trained to guard their master's property to death. Needless to say some did survive and prosper.

By the middle ages, the town had become fortified and a royal court of justice, with jurisdiction over a wide area. It is the cattle dealers and butchers of the town who are of most interest to us, for it was they who took the dog of Rottweil and turned him to their use with great effect. Long drives were undertaken from town to town, even country to country. Over a period of time, the dog was moulded to his master's needs, calling on all the virtues of his ancestors: herding ability, speed, guarding ability, strength and power, but most of all, intelligence.

Two types began to emerge: a large ponderous type, used in a draft capacity, for instance, for pulling the butchers' carts full of meat; secondly a smaller, more agile type, used mainly for herding. The latter is nearest to what we know today. Although very large dogs can still be found, they do not excel in the show ring or in the trials arenas.

It was because of this close association with the butchers and cattle drovers, that the Rottweiler was to become known as the metzgerhund, or butcher's dog. One story is told of drovers who, at the end of a long drive, having sold their cattle, would go to the bierkeller to celebrate, but before they did, they would tie the money from the sale around the dog's neck, secure in the knowledge that no matter how drunk they became, their money would be safe until morning! These were good times for the intrepid forefathers of our breed. However, it was not to last.

Rottweilers as a Pet

The Rottweilers are confident, intelligent, and good guard dogs. The problem is that some people consider this breed to be dangerous, but I want to prove them the opposite!

I, Ninoska Castellon, have 3 rottweilers named Ringo, Isis, and Ramses. They are wonderful pets, I wouldn't trade them for any other dog. They are obedient, intelligent, playful, and spoiled dogs.

The way that you treat the dog is crucial for its behavior. For instance, if you want a guard dog, you can either send the dog to a trainer, or train it yourself. One of the ways to train them is by locking them up in a cage, and then letting them out at night. This is a way to make them aggressive. You should give them food on the bowl because that way, if a criminal tries to give the rottweiler poisonous food outside of the plate, the rottweiler will not eat it.

To have friendly rottweilers, you have to be with them all the time. You have to play with them and take good care of them. These dogs are men's best friend, they are not traitors.

Depending on how you raise the rottweiler, it would act in that certain way. Therefore, rottweilers are not naturally aggressive.